Tungnath

Tungnath is one of the Five Kedars, a temple quintet tied together by identifying each as a part of Shiva's body (so in this understanding Shiva's actual body permeates this section of the mountains). A paved path leads up to the temple from the roadhead at Chopta, and even though the distance is only 3.8 miles, the steepness and the elevation (12,000 feet) make this a strenuous climb. The temple (ca. 11th c. CE) is built of local stone, with subsidiary temples around it; the exterior painted decoration changes from year to year, as the shot of the smaller Parvati temple clearly shows. The main temple has an image of Ganesh (the threshold guardian) to the right of the entrance, and a statue of Shiva's bull Nandi out in front (with the bull's head pointing--as it always does--toward the image of Shiva).

Above Tungnath is the Chandra Shekhar temple (13,100 ft) where according to tradition the demon-king Ravana worshipped Shiva to gain supernatural powers. In clear weather the summit offers stunning 360 degree views, and one looks down on the helicopters ferrying pilgrims to Kedarnath. This part of the walk is marked by exquisite alpine flora and fauna, including tiny rhododendrons and Himalayan monals, a blue grouse (of which I have no photo, alas).