Diwali
Diwali (also known as Dipavali) falls on the new moon in the month of Kartik (Oct-Nov). It carries much of the emotional resonance as Christmas does for Christians: people travel "home" to celebrate with their families, and there is significant purchasing and gift giving (now heightened in a global economy).
One charter story is that Diwali commemorates Rama's homecoming after 14 years in exile, when his subjects showed their joy by lighting up the town. Diwali lights are ubiquitous, and renting out elaborate displays (as for this home) is a thriving seasonal business. Most people supplement the electric lights with oil lamps, which give a soft, warm glow.
The other and more common charter story is is that Diwali is devoted to Lakshmi--the Goddess who is the embodiment of wealth, prosperity, and good fortune. On Diwali Lakshmi is said to walk the earth looking for a suitable home for the year, and every house (and business) gets cleaned and decorated in preparation for Lakshmi Puja, which takes place in the early evening. According to one story, a poor old woman was given a royal boon that her house would be the only one that would be be lit on this night. That night Lakshmi followed that light to dwell in the poor woman's house, and her presence brought that woman wealth and prosperity.
here is the entrance to the domestic shrine shown above (which also serves as a bedroom and a store room). The doorway is decorated with garlands on the side, and a sticker with Lakshmi's footprints over the top. Traditionally, these designs would have been drawn on the floor using colored rice powder, but the stickers are a modern adaptation.
Public spaces are also decorated to create a festive atmosphere, as with these glitter strands strung up in the marketplace.
Underneath the large tree in the photo center are some ascetics (sadhus) sitting around a fire. It also serves as a community kitchen to take donations and give away meals. Given the size of the tree this camping-place surely predates the city, and the ascetics have retained their traditional right to the space.
Milk sweets are traditionally associated with Diwali, because the milk and sugar used to make them mark them as luxury, celebratory foods. Sweet shops spring throughout the market, though the better ones have their sweets covered (to keep the flies off them).
Modern dietary changes have have spiked the incidence of diabetes, which has led some people to switch the sweet snacks for nuts and dried fruits (which are also luxury items, but healthier).
Fireworks to banish inauspicious forces are another Diwali tradition, and stalls such as this dot the market. This was one of my favorite parts, since I grew up in a state where fireworks were heavily regulated.
Aside from their potential danger--burns and other injuries spike on Diwali--this practice is now discouraged for causing noise pollution, emitting toxic fumes, and creating litter. Many students sign a public pledge that that they will not "burst crackers" on Diwali because of these ecological concerns. Since these fireworks are now largely imported from China, this provides a nationalist rationale against the practice.
The day after Diwali is Govardhan Puja/Annakut, connected both with the worship of Krishna and with a plentiful supply of food grains. Mount Govardhan is at the edge of Krishna's homeland in the Braj region, and in mythology is actually a form of Krishna himself.
In a play on words, a festival image is created out of cow dung ("Gobar-dhan" means "Wealth of cow-dung"). The cow is a marker of prosperity, and cow dung is traditionally seen as a purifying substance. This image was formed on the porch of the Vaishnava ashram across the street.
Two days after Diwali (the waxing moon's second day) is Bhai Duj, "Brother's Second," which celebrates the bond between brothers and sisters. Sisters put a tilak on their brother's foreheads--in effect, anointing them like deities--and then brothers give them sweets and gifts. It's a brief and casual ritual, and in this case was quite light-hearted.
Traditional marriage patterns--in which the bride goes to live with her husband's family--provide one clue why brothers are important. As their sisters' contemporaries, brothers can protect her interests for her entire life...unlike her father, who belongs to the older generation.