Himalayan Social Ecology (Sept.)

To prepare for such temperature swings, bring clothing that can be layered as the temperature rises or falls.  Shawls, hats, and sweaters can be bought locally if necessary. Bring appropriate footwear for walking. Running shoes are lighter than boots but provide less support.  I myself often wear Teva sandals, which can be worn with wool socks when the weather gets cold. 

Packing: Travel light.  Do not take more than you can easily carry for at least 3 blocks.  The longest we will have to walk with our bags will be to and from the train stations in Haridwar and Delhi.  You may also want to bring a day pack or shoulder bag for our walking excursions.  Here's a link to my personal packing list, and two links to Doug Dyment (guru of one-bag packing): a short one showing how to pack everything in one bag, and more in-depth information and product recommendations at his full site, www.onebag.com,

Living With Each Other

In Indian culture, the extended family is the dominant social paradigm. This is why children on the street will address you as "uncle" or "auntie" or "didi" (big sister)--it conveys relatedness (and in fact a famous Sanskrit saying, vasudaiva kutumbukam, means "the whole world is one family").  This will be our operating model during the time we travel.  This is one of the reasons we will have communal meals, because families eat together, though these meals can also function as meetings.  Travel in India can be difficult and stressful, and an effective antidote is a group dynamic in which members care for each other.  And if you are wondering about my role in this family, I am "chacha," a word that slangily means "group leader," but literally means "father's younger brother," i.e., an uncle.

Security and Personal Safety: I strongly advise every person to have a passport pouch or money belt that is worn UNDER your clothing to hold your passport, airplane ticket, credit cards, and money.  Keep some "walking around money" (200-500 rupees) in a more easily accessible place so that you don't have to expose your valuables during every purchase.  "Hill people" are widely regarded as being scrupulously honest, but as in any unfamiliar place one should always be aware of one's surroundings.  Given distressing stories of travelers drinking tea with friendly strangers and waking up to find that all their stuff had been stolen,  you should be careful about accepting food or drink from anyone you do not know.  If you don't like the vibe and they insist, thank them kindly, and tell them you are keeping a religious fast that day (culturally speaking, this is the fireproof response allows no further discussion).

Harassment: Women should travel in pairs--or with a man--to minimize trouble (which is more likely to entail smart-ass remarks rather than genuine danger).  Women should consciously try to dress “modestly” according to local standards—loose-fitting clothing that doesn’t show a lot of skin.  This is not only to avoid harassment, but also to convey awareness of and respect for local cultural norms. 

Guest Behavior: As guests in another country, participants should try not to offend local sensibilities.  For example, shoes are ALWAYS removed before entering any place of worship, and men and women should cover their heads (except in Hindu temples, in which only women usually do so).  I will of course do my best both to tell you what you should do, as well as to model appropriate behavior, so if in doubt, follow my lead.  Indians generally are warm and wonderful people, and will overlook errors when people are clearly trying to do the right thing.  

Odds and Ends

Visas: All foreign nationals must obtain an Indian visa before travel.  It cannot be obtained on arrival, and without one the airlines will not let you board the plane.  The Indian government is promoting electronic tourist visas, which can be otained for 1 month, one year, or five years.  The cost for these is quite reasonable, so if you think you may go back soon you might consider the five year visa. The official site for getting these visas is  https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa/tvoa.html

Bargaining: Is assumed in Indian bazaar culture.  Bargaining will be more difficult in any store with marked prices (although if you buy multiple things there's no harm in requesting a discount), but bargain aggressively for any item on the street, starting with 50-60% of the asking price.  Just be aware that this process can last for 20-30 minutes, so you can't be in a hurry.  Finally, the ironclad market rule is that once two people agree on a price, the negotiation is over--neither party can change the terms after that. 

Laundry: You will be washing your clothes in a bucket.  I strongly advise dark-colored clothing that will hide the dirt more effectively.

Electricity: India uses 220 volt 50 hertz electrical service with an outlet unlike those used in the US (two cylindrical prongs). Many modern electronic devices (e.g., phones) will do the current conversion for you, but will still need the plug adapter.  You can get these at travel shops or online. 

Earbuds/headphones:  I encourage travelers not to use these.  On one hand, they insulate you from the experience at hand, to which I would like you to give your full attention.  On the other, they isolate us from each other, which hinders efforts to build community.

Communication: India has excellent cell (mobile) communication networks, even in remote hill areas.  Check with your wireless carrier whether your phone will work in India, and whether an international plan will save you money.  My carrier (Google Fi) works great world wide. Remember that Indian standard time is 11 1/2 hours ahead of Central Time. 

Changing Money: Changing US dollars (cash) is simple in Delhi, torturously slow in Haridwar, and impossible in the hills.  The best strategy would be to change some dollars for rupees at the airport, and then use ATMs to get more rupees as needed.   ATMs work like magic--unless there is a power outage, or the machine has run out of cash, etc.  Your bank might charge unreasonable international ATM fees--check beforehand to avoid unpleasant surprises.  For end-of-trip shopping many stores are more than happy to accept credit cards.

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