Snapshot Memories--2024 Himalayan Social Ecology Tour
Haridwar--Open air ancestral ritual on the banks of the Ganges. The little brown figures at center represent past ancestors; the sacred fire at right conveys offerings to them through the smoke. Note the shoes in the foreground--one removes these for any religious ritual--and the people sleeping in the background (the only people who truly pay attention are the priest and the primary patron).
Har-Ki-Pairi, Haridwar's most important bathing place. This is deemed the place where the Ganges transitions from the mountains to the plains, and thus carries greater holiness. Travelers to Himalayan shrines traditionally began that journey with a ritual bath here.
Morning in village Kimana, Uttarakhand. By mid-October the monsoon has passed and the skies are usually clear, allowing for unrestricted mountain views all day everyday.
Garhwali breakfast at Himalayan Mountain Home Stay--cooked vegetable, fresh sliced cucumbers, yogurt, chapattis, and pickles. Since most of the ingredients are locally grown/sourced, the meals are not only delicious, but also help to support local agriculture.
Tungeshvar temple. This lovely centuries-old small temple is in Phalasi, a middle-of-nowhere village in district Rudraprayag. It has been lovingly maintained by the local villagers, who describe it as connected to the Tungnath temple. The people there were super friendly--and rightly proud of their temple.
With Pandit Dinesh Gaur at Kalimath temple. Dinesh is a Kalimath tirtha purohit (pilgrim guide who facilitates both ritual worship and any other pilgrim needs). I first met him in January 2020, when he led me though Kali puja in the temple, followed by a leisurely tour of all the site's temples. He did the same for this year's group, and also arranged for a delicious lunch!
Final ascent to the Kartik Swami temple. The temple is a relatively easy 4 km walk from where the road ends at Kanak Chauri. Built on a mountain summit at 10,500 feet, Kartik Swami affords panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Tungnath (12,000+ elevation) is the highest of the Panch Kedar. The footpath from Chopta moves from pine forest to rhododendron forest to alpine tundra, in which fully-grown rhododendrons are six inches tall. This photo shows the path's last part, which seems to ascend without end. The temple itself is hidden from view by the knoll at the top right, and appears once one has passed beyond it. The high elevation and exposed terrain mean that lots of sunscreen is essential here!
An unexpected highlight was being invited to a local wedding. On the first night the bride's family sponsored a feast for the village, and on the next the groom's party arrived for the actual marriage. Here the groom's friends are carrying him into the venue. Why? On their wedding day a bride and groom are seen as manifestations of the divine couple Lakshmi and Vishnu, and since according to Hindu lore the gods' feet do not actually touch the ground but instead hover above it, the groom's friends are ensuring that his feet do not touch the ground.
It was a bright, sunny, 90 degree October day in Agra. That day's visitors were mainly Indians, since the foreign tourist season doesn't start until mid-November. Despite having seen the monument many times (19 by my count) it remains both grand and beautiful.